What Is an Automatic Watch?
An automatic watch is a mechanical timepiece that winds itself using the natural motion of your wrist. Inside the case, a weighted rotor spins as you move, transferring energy to the mainspring — the coiled spring that stores the power needed to drive the hands. No battery required. The result is a watch that runs on pure mechanical engineering, the same fundamental technology that has powered timepieces for over two centuries.
Unlike quartz watches (which use a battery and electronic oscillator), automatic watches are alive. The sweep of the seconds hand is smooth, not stepped. The movement inside is visible through an exhibition case back. And the act of wearing the watch is what keeps it running — a daily ritual that connects you to something mechanical in an increasingly digital world.
How Automatic Watches Work
The mechanics are elegant in their simplicity. A rotor — a semicircular weight — sits on top of the movement. As your wrist moves throughout the day, the rotor spins freely in both directions. That rotation is transferred through a series of gears to the mainspring, winding it gradually. The mainspring stores this energy and releases it in a controlled way through the gear train, which moves the hands at the correct rate. The escapement — the beating heart of any mechanical watch — regulates this energy release, oscillating back and forth thousands of times per hour (typically 21,600 or 28,800 vibrations per hour). Most modern automatics offer 38-48 hours of power reserve, meaning they'll keep running for about two days after you take them off.
The Best Automatic Movements in 2026
The movement is the engine of your watch, and in 2026, several Japanese calibres dominate the affordable segment:
Seiko NH35A
The industry standard for affordable automatic watches. The NH35A offers hacking (the seconds hand stops when you pull the crown, allowing precise time-setting), hand-winding capability, and a 41-hour power reserve. It beats at 21,600 BPH and has 24 jewels. Widely serviceable by any watchmaker worldwide. Used in the CrownCraft DEEPMASTER, CENTRE COURT, and BELMONT. For a deep dive into this calibre, read our NH35A Movement Guide.
Seiko NH38A
A variant of the NH35 without the date complication. By removing the date wheel, the NH38A allows for cleaner dial designs — particularly important for open-heart watches where the balance wheel is visible through a window in the dial. Used in the CrownCraft ROADSTER.
Seiko NH34A (GMT)
The only affordable true-GMT automatic movement available. The NH34A adds a fourth hand — a 24-hour GMT hand — that can track a second time zone independently. This is the same complication found in GMT watches costing thousands of euros from Swiss brands. Used in the CrownCraft MERIDIAN-GMT.
Seiko VK63 (Meca-Quartz)
A hybrid movement that combines a mechanical chronograph mechanism with quartz-regulated timekeeping. The chronograph seconds hand sweeps smoothly like a mechanical watch, but accuracy is maintained to ±20 seconds per month. Three-year battery life. Used in the CrownCraft SPEEDWAY. Learn more: Automatic vs Quartz.
Miyota 8215 / PT5000
The Miyota 8215 is a Citizen-made calibre found in many microbrands. Reliable and affordable, though it lacks hand-winding capability. The PT5000 is a Chinese movement that clones the Swiss ETA 2824 — increasingly common in mid-range microbrands and surprisingly accurate.
Types of Automatic Watches
Dive Watches
Built for water resistance and legibility underwater. Key features: unidirectional rotating bezel (to time dives), screw-down crown, luminous hands and markers, and minimum 100m water resistance. The CrownCraft DEEPMASTER is a classic dive watch with a ceramic bezel insert and ice-blue sunburst dial.
GMT Watches
Designed for travellers who need to track two time zones simultaneously. A fourth hand (the GMT hand) completes one rotation every 24 hours, paired with a 24-hour bezel. The CrownCraft MERIDIAN-GMT uses the NH34A true-GMT movement.
Dress Watches
Slim, elegant, designed to slide under a shirt cuff. Features like fluted bezels, sunburst dials, and jubilee bracelets define the category. The CrownCraft CENTRE COURT is a dress watch with a fluted bezel and applied indices.
Open-Heart / Skeleton Watches
These watches reveal the movement through a window in the dial, letting you see the balance wheel oscillating. The CrownCraft ROADSTER features an open-heart window at 12 o'clock with rose-gold finishing.
Chronograph Watches
Watches with a built-in stopwatch function. The CrownCraft SPEEDWAY uses a meca-quartz movement — the chronograph mechanism is mechanical (smooth sweep), while timekeeping is quartz-regulated.
Square-Case Watches
Rarer than round watches due to more complex case machining. The CrownCraft BELMONT features a square case with exposed signature screws and a sapphire-set crown.
Sapphire Crystal vs Mineral Glass
Sapphire crystal (Mohs 9) is virtually scratch-proof — only a diamond can scratch it. Mineral glass (Mohs 5-6) scratches easily over time. Every CrownCraft watch uses flat sapphire crystal as standard. Read our full comparison: Sapphire Crystal vs Mineral Glass.
Water Resistance Explained
A 100m (10 ATM) rating means the watch is suitable for swimming, snorkelling, and recreational water sports — not literal diving to 100 metres. All CrownCraft watches are rated to 100m. Learn more: Water Resistance 100m Explained.
How Much Should You Spend?
In 2026, the sub-€300 segment offers genuine quality. Sapphire crystals, Japanese automatic movements, ceramic bezels, and 100m water resistance are all available under €300. The CrownCraft collection ranges from €229 (SPEEDWAY) to €289 (MERIDIAN-GMT), delivering specifications that match watches priced three to five times higher. The key differentiator at this price point is design, finishing, and brand identity — not the movement.
How CrownCraft Watches Are Made
Every CrownCraft watch is independently designed in Zaragoza, Spain, and assembled to order. There is no warehouse of pre-built watches — your watch is built when you order it. Read the full story: How CrownCraft Watches Are Made.