The CrownCraft Watch Encyclopedia

Original Automatic Timepieces

The Watch
Encyclopedia

20 chapters, 50 questions answered, complete glossary. Everything you need to know about watches. By CrownCraft.

Table of Contents

  1. Watch Movements
  2. Automatic Watches
  3. Quartz Explained
  4. How an Automatic Works
  5. Watch Anatomy
  6. Case Materials
  7. Watch Crystals
  8. Bezel Types
  9. Types of Watches
  10. Water Resistance
  11. Size and Fit Guide
  12. Daily Care
  13. Servicing
  14. Common Problems
  15. Buying Guide
  16. Glossary A to Z
  17. 50 Most Asked Questions

Chapter 1 - Watch Movements

The movement is the engine of every watch. It powers the hands, drives complications, and keeps time. Three fundamental categories exist.

Mechanical

Energy stored in a mainspring, released through gears, regulated by an escapement. Manual-wind or automatic. 500+ years of evolution.

Quartz

Battery drives quartz crystal vibrating 32,768 times per second. Invented by Seiko (1969). 30x more accurate than mechanical.

Identify the movement by the seconds hand: smooth sweep = mechanical. Tick-tick jumping = quartz.

Chapter 2 - Automatic Watches

A mechanical watch that winds itself via a weighted rotor spinning with your wrist motion.

Power Reserve
38-42h standard (NH35A: 41h)
Beat Rate
21,600 VPH or 28,800 VPH (hi-beat)
Jewels
21-24 synthetic ruby bearings
Hacking
Seconds stops when crown pulled
Hand-winding
Manual winding via crown

CrownCraft Calibers

NH35A - 24 jewels, 21,600 VPH, 41h reserve. Powers the BELMONT, CENTRE COURT, and DEEPMASTER.

NH34A - True GMT with independent 24-hour hand. Powers the MERIDIAN-GMT.

NH38A - No-date variant for open-heart designs. Powers the ROADSTER.

VK63 - Meca-quartz hybrid chronograph. Quartz accuracy with mechanical pusher feel. Powers the SPEEDWAY.

Chapter 3 - Quartz Explained

The 1969 Seiko Astron triggered the Quartz Crisis. Swiss watchmakers lost 60% of the market. Battery drives quartz crystal at 32,768 Hz for accuracy of plus or minus 15 seconds per month.

Accuracy
Quartz: 15 sec/month vs Mechanical: 15 sec/day
Maintenance
Battery 2-3 years vs Service 5-7 years
Lifespan
Both last decades with proper care
If accuracy is everything, quartz wins. But watches transcend accuracy - they are engineering, heritage, and intention.

Chapter 4 - How an Automatic Works

Step 1 - Rotor: Weighted disc harvests kinetic energy from wrist motion.

Step 2 - Mainspring: Coiled metal strip stores potential energy (41h in NH35A).

Step 3 - Gear Train: 4-5 precision gears transmit energy at exact ratios.

Step 4 - Escapement: Controls energy flow with lock-and-release, creates the tick.

Step 5 - Balance Wheel: Oscillates 518,400 times per day, regulated by the hairspring.

Step 6 - Hands: Final gears drive hour (1 rev/12h), minute (1 rev/h), seconds (1 rev/min).

In one year, the NH35A balance wheel oscillates over 189 million times - powered by nothing more than your wrist.

Chapter 5 - Watch Anatomy

The Case

Shape, diameter (36-44mm), thickness, lug-to-lug. CrownCraft: 40mm.

The Dial

Hour markers, hands, sub-dials, finishing (sunburst, guilloche, matte).

The Crown

Pos 0: wind. Pos 1: date. Pos 2: time. Screw-down: unscrew first.

The Caseback

Solid (max WR) or exhibition (sapphire). All CrownCraft: exhibition.

Chapter 6 - Case Materials

316L Steel

Surgical-grade. Corrosion-resistant, hypoallergenic. Every CrownCraft uses 316L.

Titanium

40% lighter than steel. Hypoallergenic. Matte grey. Scratches easier but brushable.

Ceramic (ZrO2)

Mohs 8.5. Scratch-proof, UV-proof. CrownCraft ceramic bezel inserts.

Gold (18K)

Yellow, rose, white. Warm, prestigious. Rose gold PVD on CrownCraft ROADSTER.

Chapter 7 - Watch Crystals

Sapphire - Mohs 9

Virtually scratch-proof. Only diamond is harder. Every CrownCraft uses sapphire as standard.

Mineral Glass - Mohs 5-6

Scratches in months. Cannot be polished. Budget option only.

If a watch costs over 150 euros without sapphire crystal, the brand is cutting corners.

Chapter 8 - Bezel Types

Dive (Unidirectional)

60-click, counterclockwise only. Safety feature. DEEPMASTER.

GMT (Bidirectional)

24-hour scale for second time zone. MERIDIAN-GMT.

Tachymeter (Fixed)

Speed calculation with chronograph. SPEEDWAY.

Fluted (Decorative)

Vertical grooves. Aesthetic. CENTRE COURT.

Chapter 9 - Types of Watches

Dive Watch

Unidirectional bezel, 100m+ WR, luminous. CrownCraft: DEEPMASTER.

Dress Watch

Thin, elegant, fluted bezel. CrownCraft: CENTRE COURT.

Chronograph

Stopwatch, pushers, sub-dials. CrownCraft: SPEEDWAY.

GMT Watch

Two time zones, 24h hand. CrownCraft: MERIDIAN-GMT.

Square Case

Architectural, bold. CrownCraft: BELMONT.

Open Heart

Visible balance wheel. CrownCraft: ROADSTER.

Chapter 10 - Water Resistance

30m / 3 ATM - Splash-proof only. Rain, hand washing.

50m / 5 ATM - Brief swimming. No diving.

100m / 10 ATM - Swimming, snorkelling, water sports. ALL CROWNCRAFT WATCHES.

200m / 20 ATM - Recreational scuba diving.

300m+ - Professional diving.

NEVER operate the crown while the watch is wet. Even a 300m dive watch floods with an open crown.
Rinse with fresh water after saltwater. Have gaskets checked every 5-7 years.

Chapter 11 - Size and Fit Guide

Under 6.5 in
36-40mm case diameter
6.5-7 in
38-42mm (most common)
7-7.5 in
40-44mm
Over 7.5 in
42-46mm+
Lug-to-lug distance matters MORE than dial diameter. If lugs overhang your wrist, the watch is too large.

Chapter 12 - Daily Care

Daily

Wipe with soft cloth. Remove sweat and oils.

Weekly

Steel bracelet: warm water, mild soap, soft toothbrush between links.

Storage

Cool, dry, away from magnets (phones, laptops, speakers).

Magnetism

Causes fast-running. Demagnetisation takes 5 seconds at any watchmaker.

Chapter 13 - Servicing

Automatic
Every 5-7 years: disassembly, cleaning, lubrication, regulation, gaskets, WR test
Quartz
Battery 2-3 years. Full service every 10 years
Cost (NH35)
80-200 euros at independent watchmaker
Cost (Rolex)
500-1,200 euros at authorised service

Chapter 14 - Common Problems

Stopped overnight

Power reserve empty. Wind 20-30 turns. If stops while worn, service needed.

Running very fast

Magnetised. Any watchmaker demagnetises in seconds (usually free).

Running slow

Lubricants degraded. Needs servicing if losing more than 30 sec/day.

Fog under crystal

Water inside. STOP wearing. Open crown. See watchmaker urgently.

Date changed at noon

Hands 12h off. Advance time by 12 hours.

Crown stiff or gritty

Screw-down: unscrew counterclockwise first. Push-pull: gasket worn. Do not force it.

Rattles when shaken

Normal. The rotor spins freely on its bearing.

Chapter 15 - Buying Guide

100-300 euros - The Sweet Spot

Entry automatics. NH35/Miyota movements, sapphire crystal, 100m WR, 316L steel. CrownCraft (229-289 euros) delivers specs found at 400-600+ euros by selling directly.

Under 100 euros: Quartz from Casio, Timex, Citizen Eco-Drive.

300-1,000 euros: Seiko Presage, Tissot PRX, Hamilton Khaki.

1,000-5,000 euros: Tudor, Longines, Oris, Nomos.

5,000+ euros: Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, IWC.

The 7-Point Checklist

1. Movement specified by name? 2. Sapphire crystal? 3. 100m+ water resistance? 4. 316L steel? 5. Lug-to-lug fits your wrist? 6. Returns policy? 7. Warranty?

Chapter 16 - Glossary A to Z

ATM
Water resistance unit (1 ATM = approx 10m)
Balance Wheel
Oscillating wheel regulating timekeeping
Beat Rate
Balance wheel frequency in VPH
Bezel
Ring surrounding the crystal
Caliber
Movement designation (e.g. NH35A)
Chronograph
Integrated stopwatch function
Chronometer
COSC-certified accuracy (-4/+6 sec/day)
Complication
Function beyond hours/minutes/seconds
Crown
Setting and winding knob
Deployant
Folding clasp for bracelet/strap
Escapement
Energy regulation mechanism
Exhibition
Transparent sapphire caseback
GMT
Second time zone complication
Hacking
Seconds stops when crown pulled
Hairspring
Tiny spring controlling balance wheel
In-house
Brand-designed and manufactured movement
Jewels
Synthetic ruby friction bearings
Lug-to-Lug
Vertical span of case including lugs
Lume
Glow-in-dark material (Super-LumiNova)
Mainspring
Coiled strip storing energy
NATO
Single-piece nylon strap
Open Heart
Dial aperture showing balance wheel
Panda Dial
Contrasting chronograph sub-dials
Power Reserve
Runtime when fully wound
PVD
Physical Vapour Deposition coating
Rotor
Self-winding weight in automatic
Sapphire
Synthetic corundum crystal (Mohs 9)
Tachymeter
Speed calculation bezel scale
Tourbillon
Rotating escapement cage
VPH
Vibrations Per Hour (beat rate)

Chapter 17 - The 50 Most Asked Watch Questions

1. Do automatic watches need batteries?

No. Powered by a mainspring wound through wrist motion.

2. How long do automatic watches last?

With servicing every 5-7 years, indefinitely.

3. Are expensive watches more accurate?

No. A 30-euro Casio quartz outperforms a 50,000-euro Patek Philippe.

4. Best first automatic watch?

NH35 movement, sapphire, 100m WR, 316L steel. 200-300 euros. CrownCraft starts at 229.

5. Can I overwind my automatic?

No. A clutch prevents overwinding.

6. Why does my automatic stop overnight?

Power reserve ran out. Wind 20-30 turns to restart.

7. Do I need a watch winder?

Only if you rotate between automatics and dislike resetting.

8. What does 21 jewels mean?

21 synthetic ruby bearings reducing friction. Standard. More does not mean better.

9. Can watches be magnetised?

Yes. Phones, laptops, speakers. Fixed in seconds by any watchmaker.

10. Can I swim with my 100m watch?

Yes. Swimming, snorkelling, water sports - all safe with crown secured.

11. Can I shower with my watch?

Possible at 100m+ but soap degrades gaskets. Better to avoid.

12. Is any watch truly waterproof?

No. All are water resistant, not waterproof.

13. Does water resistance decrease?

Yes. Gaskets degrade. Check every 5-7 years.

14. Fog under crystal?

Water inside. STOP wearing. See watchmaker urgently.

15. How accurate should my automatic be?

Plus or minus 20 sec/day acceptable. COSC: -4/+6 sec/day.

16. What is power reserve?

Runtime when fully wound. NH35A: about 41 hours.

17. What is hacking?

Seconds hand stops when crown pulled for precise synchronisation.

18. What is a complication?

Any function beyond hours/minutes/seconds: date, GMT, chronograph, moon phase.

19. Sapphire vs mineral glass?

Sapphire: Mohs 9, scratch-proof. Mineral: Mohs 5-6, scratches in months.

20. What is 316L steel?

Surgical-grade stainless steel. The quality standard for watches.

21. What size watch should I wear?

Under 6.5 inches: 36-40mm. 6.5-7: 38-42mm. Over 7: 40-44mm.

22. What is lug-to-lug?

Vertical span tip-to-tip. More important than dial diameter for fit.

23. How often service my automatic?

Every 5-7 years. Disassembly, cleaning, lubrication, regulation.

24. How much does service cost?

80-200 euros for NH35/Miyota. 500-1,200 for Rolex/Omega.

25. Watch running fast?

Magnetised. Watchmaker demagnetises in 5 seconds. Usually free.

26. Watch running slow?

Lubricants degraded. Needs servicing if losing more than 30 sec/day.

27. Can magnets damage my watch?

They magnetise the hairspring causing fast-running. Keep away from phones.

28. Do watches hold value?

Most depreciate. Only select Rolex/Patek/AP appreciate. Buy for enjoyment.

29. What is a microbrand?

Small independent company selling direct. CrownCraft is a microbrand from Spain.

30. What movements does CrownCraft use?

NH35A (BELMONT, CENTRE COURT, DEEPMASTER), NH34A (MERIDIAN-GMT), NH38A (ROADSTER), VK63 (SPEEDWAY).

31. Are CrownCraft watches water resistant?

All six models: 100m (10 ATM).

32. What crystal does CrownCraft use?

Sapphire on every model as standard.

33. Where is CrownCraft designed?

Zaragoza, Spain. Assembled to order.

34. How much do CrownCraft watches cost?

229 euros (SPEEDWAY) to 289 euros (MERIDIAN-GMT).

35. Is CrownCraft worth it?

Sapphire, 100m WR, Japanese movements, 316L steel, ceramic bezels. Specs found at 400-600+ euros. From 229 by selling directly.

36. Can I see the movement?

Yes. Every CrownCraft has an exhibition caseback.

37. Date quickset danger zone?

NEVER change date between 9 PM and 3 AM. The mechanism can break.

38. Watch rattles when shaken?

Normal. The rotor spins freely on its bearing.

39. What is a GMT watch?

Tracks two time zones via 24-hour hand. CrownCraft MERIDIAN-GMT.

40. What is an open heart watch?

Dial aperture revealing balance wheel. CrownCraft ROADSTER.

41. What is a panda dial?

Contrasting chronograph sub-dials. CrownCraft SPEEDWAY.

42. Why is NH35A so popular?

Proven Seiko reliability, hacking + hand-winding, 41h reserve, serviceable worldwide.

43. What is the Quartz Crisis?

1970s-1980s: cheap quartz nearly destroyed Swiss mechanical watchmaking.

44. New or pre-owned?

New: warranty, certainty. Pre-owned: better value. First watch: buy new.

45. What is a chronograph vs chronometer?

Chronograph = stopwatch. Chronometer = accuracy certification. Different things.

46. Can I sleep with my watch?

Possible but not ideal. Sweat, impacts, strap discomfort.

47. Airport security?

No need to remove. X-rays and metal detectors are harmless.

48. Can I change straps myself?

Yes. Spring bar tool or quick-release bars (no tools needed).

49. How tight should the bracelet be?

One finger between bracelet and wrist. Should not slide more than an inch.

50. Worth buying a watch in 2026?

A mechanical watch is engineering, craftsmanship, and intention - worn on your wrist.

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CROWNCRAFT - ORIGINAL AUTOMATIC WATCHES - DESIGNED IN SPAIN